Seattle–Seafood, Family and Traffic

Mt. Rainier and Washington State ferry

Laurel and I flew to Seattle in mid-July for our annual visit with my daughters and grandkids, to touch base with good friends who live there, and to fill up on the great seafood that runs rampant through the Puget Sound region. On this trip, the weather in Seattle was glorious: 80 degrees and sunny. And when it’s sunny in Seattle, there’s no place, as the song goes, that has bluer skies.

Before we left San Diego, we talked to our friends Joe and Julia Ensley and were warned that in the last five years, City-limits Seattle has grown from six to seven hundred thousand people. Be prepared for bad traffic, made worse by the fact that construction happening everywhere is blocking lots of streets. And the ferry terminal is being renovated, so consider driving around part of Puget Sound instead of sailing across to get to their place on Bainbridge Island. I checked out Google Maps and decided to do just that, so we headed south from Sea-Tac airport instead of north.

Tides Tavern in Gig Harbor

We drove down toward Tacoma and turned west to cross the Tacoma Narrows bridge, the famous span that was known as “galloping Gertie” and in 1940 broke in half and collapsed. Fortunately, only one death was caused by this amazing accident that someone actually caught on film. (Check it out on Wikipedia.) We continued northwest and entered the picturesque town of Gig Harbor, once the home to quite a fleet of salmon boats. Fortunately, it’s still home to Tides Tavern, which just celebrated its 45th anniversary. And even more fortunately, they were serving Copper River sockeye salmon and chips.

We sat out on the sunsoaked deck and had the first of several of the week’s great lunches, topped off with a pint of Fremont Lush IPA from the iconoclastic neighborhood in Seattle. Filled with independent spirit, there are signs that advise, “Entering Fremont Time Zone. Set Your Watch Forward Five Minutes.”

Zamboanga in Winslow

After lunch, we drove on north through Kitsap County past Bremerton and Poulsbo, then crossed the bridge at Agate Passage to Bainbridge Island and the town of Winslow where Joe and Julia have a store called Zamboanga, filled with clothing they design and commission on the island of Bali, half a world away. We stayed the night with the Ensleys, and, of course, Joe grilled salmon on the barbecue.

Seattle skyline

The next day, Thursday, the four of us took Marco, their Portuguese water dog, for a walk along the scenic shoreline of Fort Ward State Park, then stopped in Winslow at the Harbour Public House for lunch, where Laurel and I split a delicious ling cod sandwich. After lunch, it was no problem getting on the ferry to Seattle. We went up to the top deck to enjoy the views of the blue water and sky as we approached the city. We did notice that there were more building cranes than normal and remarked on the fact that the skyline was more populated with new buildings than we had seen the previous year. And, as we drove up the gangway and out into the streets of downtown Seattle, the removal of the old Alaskan Way viaduct seems at its height. I skirted around much of the downtown area toward Aurora Way North, Seattle’s highway 99, but the traffic slowed us every step of the way.

The Whisky Bar

The drive north to our motel took us past Woodland Park with its greenery and zoo, and Green Lake was busy with folks enjoying its grassy spaces and beaches, but it’s evident that the city is bursting at the seams. We weren’t really looking forward to the drive back into the city, but we had reservations at a jazz club called Tula’s and were looking forward to seeing Overton Berry, a jazz institution in Seattle. Once parked, we began looking for a new bar to us: the Whisky Bar. It was just a block south and quite a place, with more than 180 whisk(e)ys and 160 Scotches. We ordered two Sazeracs, the famous drink of New Orleans, and our friendly bartender served up a pair of excellent ones, after clarifying that we wanted the drink and not the brand, since they carry a brand that’s called Sazerac Rye Whisky.

At Tula’s, not tired of salmon yet, we split an order of Smoked Sockeye Salmon Fettuccine before Overton and his bassist came on the stage. He’s now 82, but still plays seemingly ageless piano, and his treatment of an evening of songs, including tunes from Black Orpheus, was terrific.

Bald Eagle

On Friday morning we filled our travel mugs with coffee in the motel lobby and headed north. The traffic out of the city wasn’t bad, and we passed through Everett and Mount Vernon, then turned west at Burlington to reach Deception Pass, whose bridge spans the deep passage between the mainland and Whidbey Island, which occupies the northern entrance to Puget Sound and Washington from Vancouver Island and Canada. The road south to the Clinton ferry at the south end is 55 miles long and travels through rugged forest, coastal shore and farmland.

We pulled off at the viewpoint before crossing the bridge and got out to enjoy the view and take a couple of pictures, and, as we stepped onto the end of the bridge, a majestic Bald Eagle flew down and landed in a snag just across the road, posing for pictures against the blue morning sky. It was the first of twelve eagles we saw that day, two of them sitting in nests atop high tension power poles.

We stopped at two of Whidbey’s state parks, Fort Ebey and Fort Casey, both of which, during World War II, held massive gun emplacements aimed at the entrance to Puget Sound from the Strait of Juan de Fuca, a narrow body of water leading east from the Pacific Ocean and Japan.

Mountains of mussels at Toby’s Tavern in Coupeville

East of Fort Ebey, lunchtime found us in Coupeville, the county seat for Island County. Coupeville sits on a small body of water made famous by its mussels: Penn Cove mussels, arguably the best-eating mussels in North America and famous in restaurants everywhere. Sitting out on a pier in downtown Coupeville, Toby’s Tavern serves up Penn Cove mussels to the tune of more than 2,700 pounds a month. We happily sampled a pound each of the tasty bivalves, and Laurel was smart enough to order a cup of mussel chowder, too. I stayed traditional and had clam chowder, but the mussel chowder was better.

After spending a little time on another beach, we headed from Clinton across the short span to Mukilteo on a 20-minute ferry ride and headed south, and I do mean south. We had a date with our friends Dave Wilson and Barb DeVincentis in Burien, all the way south of Seattle and west of Sea-Tac Airport. Not to bore you, but at Northgate, 110th North in Seattle, traffic ground to a crawl and continued slow until we passed downtown, then happily sped back up. We had reservations for 7:00 at Angelo’s and arrived breathlessly seven minutes early. We had a great time with Dave and Barb and split an order of seafood cannelloni that was rich with Dungeness crab, another Northwest specialty.

We were expected at my daughter Emily’s place at three on Saturday afternoon and decided to check out one big park we hadn’t birded together. Now called Warren Magnuson Park, it was Sand Point Naval Air Station for many years before that. The park borders a large section of the Lake Washington shoreline and protects many acres of wetlands. Even though July is a notoriously birdless month, we did see many American Goldfinch, the Washington state bird, as well a goldfinch nest that was keeping a female busy. We also saw our first Downy Woodpecker for the year and a few other things, but it was mainly a nice walk.

Elysian Brewing Company at Tangletown

Elysian Brewing Company has expanded and now has five locations in Seattle, where they serve their wonderful IPA, Space Dust. We stopped in at their Tangletown location near Green Lake for lunch and were delighted to see that they served Saturday brunch with live jazz. Of course, we couldn’t possibly pass up two Sockeye Salmon Benedicts to go with the brews.

That afternoon, we hung out at Emily’s and petted her little rescued sorta spaniel, Daisy. We also got to know her new temporary visitor, Canela, which means cinnamon in Spanish. She’s a sweet Heinz 57 variety that’s one of 32 dogs rescued in Costa Rica and brought to the U.S. for new homes. Canela loves everyone and acts accordingly. Later, my daughter, Jenny, and her husband Kevin and high-school-senior son Nathan joined us, and we drove over to north Lake Union for an excellent Mexican dinner at Agua Verde Café.

Pike Place Market

On our last day in Seattle, not counting return flight day, we drove down early to visit the Pike Place Market. If you’re ever in Seattle, it’s a great place to visit, but do it early. By ten in the morning, it had become a mob. One of my favorite places is Jack’s Fish Spot, across the street from the main market. We picked up a nice piece of smoked salmon, and they wrapped it so it would hold unrefrigerated for 24 hours. We’re also quite fond of Jack’s clam chowder, which has smoked salmon in it, as well. We have the Pike Place Market Cookbook, and that chowder recipe is in it, so we enjoy it frequently at home.

The Hammering Man at SAM

We left the market and walked down to SAM, the Seattle Art Museum, just a couple of blocks south on First Avenue. They have a terrific show on right now that’s a major retrospective of Edward Curtis’ Native American photographs, combined with exhibits of three indigenous Native artists. Following that exhibit, we were pretty much museumed out, so we went back to the car and drove up to Capitol Hill.

Taylor Shellfish has grown to six locations in Washington, three in Seattle alone, and we went to the branch on Melrose to get some of the best oysters on the halfshell you’ll ever find. We accompanied that with a serving of their smoked oyster dip and a tuna poke bowl for a fabulous meal.

Sunset at Ray’s Boathouse

After an afternoon break, we drove over to Ballard in northwest Seattle, and it occurred to me that Laurel had never seen the Hiram Chittenden Locks, the connection between Puget Sound and all the fresh-water lakes in Seattle. On the far side of the locks the fish ladder is the gateway to Seattle and its lakes and rivers for spawning salmon, and we saw quite a few in the windows with underwater views of them on their way up from the salt water. We continued on to Ray’s Boathouse and Café, north of the locks with a view of passing boats, sat out on the sunny evening deck at the upstairs café, and split an order of sea scallop pasta, our first scallops of the week. The downstairs Ray’s Boathouse is a quieter, fancier place that serves all manner of 5-star seafood.

Monday morning, we flew home to San Diego, went grocery shopping and collected the mail.

The Prado in Balboa Park

The next day, Tuesday, July 17th, happened to be our ninth wedding anniversary, and we celebrated it by going to the wonderful Prado Restaurant in Balboa Park. Every Tuesday, they have what they call Date Night, which includes excellent salads and entrees for two, along with a bottle of wine for $46.95. Quite a bargain! By the way, we both ordered their excellent pork chops.

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